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‘We came back for nothing’: Returning home to northern Gaza, Palestinians find death and destruction

Ivana Kottasová, Kareem Khadder and Mohammad Al-Sawalhi

Khamis and Ahmad Imarah knew they wouldn’t find much more than rubble when returning to their home in northern Gaza. But they had to go. Their father and brother are still buried under the debris, more than a year after their home was struck by Israeli forces.

Standing in the middle of the Al-Shujaiya neighborhood in Gaza City on Tuesday, all Khamis Imarah could see was utter devastation. “When I came back here my heart was ripped apart. The only thing that brought me back was my father and brother,” he told CNN.

“I don’t want anything else. What I am asking for is to find my father and brother and that’s it, that’s all.”

The Gaza Government Office said Wednesday that some 500,000 displaced Palestinians — almost a quarter of the enclave’s population — had made the journey to the decimated north in the first 72 hours after Israeli forces opened the Netzarim corridor, which separates it from the south.

The two Imarah brothers walked 11 kilometers (6.8 miles) to reach Al-Shujaiya, a treacherous journey they made with several small children. They found their home almost completely gone, with just one room still partially standing.

Rummaging through the rubble, Khamis came across his mother’s green knitting bag, with a couple of balls of yarn and two crochet hooks still inside, as if she had only just put it down.

“She used to like to knit, she used to like wool and things like this,” he said, going through the supplies. “Oh God, my mom had so many stories. She is a storyteller, and she likes the old stories. She was an entertainer. God be with you, Mother,” he told CNN.

Khamis and Ahmad’s mother was injured in an Israeli strike and was later evacuated to Egypt, one of the few Palestinians allowed to leave the strip to get medical treatment before Israel closed the Rafah crossing between Gaza and Egypt in May 2024. The United Nations Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA) said that only 436 patients, most of them children, had been allowed to be evacuated since May, out of the estimated 12,000 who urgently need medical evacuation.

Israeli military strikes have turned most of Gaza to rubble. According to the UN, some 69% of all structures in the strip have been destroyed or damaged in the past 15 months, with Gaza City the worst hit.

Returning after more than a year

Israel forced most residents of northern Gaza to leave the area early in the war, issuing evacuation orders and telling people to move south. Once people left, return was impossible, meaning that most of those coming back this week are doing so for the first time in more than a year. And while nine in 10 Gaza residents have been displaced during the war, those forced to flee the north have been homeless for the longest.

The journey back north is long and difficult, Khamis told CNN, with roads destroyed and mud and piles of rubble obstructing the way. Transport is not widely available, so about a third of the people were making their way back on foot, according to OCHA.

“You enter from one neighborhood to another and it’s all mounds of rubble that have not been cleared … and there were martyrs on the way, on the road where, until today, no one has picked them up. There are fresh bodies and bodies that have (decomposed) as well,” Khamis said.

He urged others looking to make the journey back north to reconsider. “Because there is no water, no electricity or even food, no tents, you sleep in the rubble,” he said.

Mohammad Salha, director of Al-Awda Hospital in Tal Al-Zaatar, said there is currently no space in northern Gaza to establish camps for displaced people returning home. The area was densely built-up before the war and the enormous scale of damage means there are now huge mountains of rubble and debris everywhere.

“There are no camps for displaced residents to stay in. Some people are trying to repair their damaged homes, but northern Gaza urgently needs intervention — humanitarian institutions must provide shelter, water and camps,” he told CNN.

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